Tue 10 Mar – Krabi province

As mentioned in yesterday’s blog, a large reason for Krabi Town’s existence is that is serves as a centre to explore surrounding locales, which collectively are known as the Krabi Province. It would serve that purpose for us today as we checked out nearby Hat Rai Leh and Ao Nang.

A decent amount of time passed between leaving the K Guesthouse and setting foot on our transportation to Hat Rai Leh (in English – Rai Leh Beach), due to Lonely Planet providing us with public transport prices that appear well out of date. Longtail boats, so named due to the combined length of their hull and their crude extended propellers, are around 70 baht per person between Krabi Town and Hat Rai Leh according to the fat little guide book, however we eventually conceded to the local’s demands for 150 baht. Conversations with other travellers confirmed that 150 baht appears to be the current benchmark.

In a quote dated around two years ago, the longtail boats are as safe as the Bank of England. That might have been extremely comforting back then but in current circumstances it makes you really eye off those seats closest to the safety jackets.

Any negative thoughts were forgotten upon reaching magical Hat Rai Leh. The supposedly shoestring eastern part of this area was attractive enough for a couple of Brits with us in the boat to confuse it with the Western section, one of the world’s signature honeymoon destinations. A narrow path leads everyone across the thin Rai Leh peninsula to the Western beach. I’ll let the photos I’ve taken speak for this area.

I’ll just add that the two most amazing things for me about the limestone karsts that dominate the scenery is that many of them are taller than they are wider, and that vegetation occupies every available space of their surfaces, however precarious the location of the tree or shrub is.

Ao-Nang was a lovely spot in itself, but is quite reminiscent of beach towns found in Australia and elsewhere. Its fusion of East and West was far too slanted to the West for it to be considered a worth more than a feed and a beer or two (and Libe’s first wine since Singapore, a lazy 6 days!), so for a lazy 50 baht we hitched a songthaew back to Krabi.

Nighttime has been when these Asian areas really come alive, which is understandable given the intensity of the day’s sun and humidity. The day is full of sweat, the night beings comparatively comfortable conditions, and consistently separating the two is a shower to become fresh again. After dark tonight was no exception, with the town’s streets and bars enjoying healthy patronage. We passed the time tonight in two places, one a commonly-found restaurant/bar/internet café, the other a Rastafarian bar where the dreadlocked dude in charge shelled out cocktails, albeit rather small ones, at 80 baht a pop (less than 4 AUD). Three rounds rung up a bill of 480 baht, less than 23 AUD. That might seem small but when compared to our accommodation cost of 450 baht per night it’s a more expensive backpackers night out in Thailand.

Wed 11 Mar – Krabi Town to Phuket Town

Another day, more travelling, this time between Krabi and Phuket. A common aspect of these two places is that they are both a province and a town within that province. Phuket the province includes popular tourist destinations Patong, Karon and Kata.

The bus ride from Krabi to Phuket was as harrowing as the ride a couple of days ago between Hat Yai and Krabi. Although there was not as many nerve-inducing moments, there was an instance where the driver lost concentration, gradually veered over to the shoulder of the road and required quick evasive action to avoid an unsuspecting motor scooter rider talking on their mobile. There were a number of travellers on the starboard side of the bus concerned that we may have hit the rider but I can confirm from my view on the port that they remained amazingly unharmed.

Phuket Town is largely free from the influence of tourism, which for me makes it a great place to stay. The meals are more authentically Thai, as well as their prices. The architecture of the place is described as Sino-Portguese and gives an unpretentious feel to it. Staying here instead of at the Phuket Province beaches was a good idea (as recommended by the fat little guide book), particularly with what we would see tomorrow….

Thu 12 Mar – Phuket Province

Yes, staying in Phuket Town rather than the provincial beaches was certainly a good idea. Today we caught the bus down to Patong Beach, which is really where tourists to ‘Phuket’ tend to stay. I’m positive that throughout my travelling and blogging experiences I’ve not been too negative on many places. However, I think we have a new contender for my most low-rated place, alongside Hollywood.

So here it is. Patong Beach is a showy scum of a town that is not worth the low-cost airfare from Australia. It’s pushy, overpriced, far too touristy and not surprisingly corrupt. There seems to be few genuine locals – I can’t recall speaking to anyone who was not solely interested in parting you with your cash and as much of it as possible.

Here’s a meaningful idea of the prices at Patong:

• Ice cream from Haagen Daas: AUD 13
• Billabong Boardies: 100 Baht (under 5 AUD) in Rai Leh, Krabi; 400 Baht in Patong.
• Sawngthaew: 45 min trip – Ao Nang to Krabi – 50 Baht per person; 10 min trip – Patong Beach to Karon Beach – 70 Baht person.

Just go elsewhere.

We eventually did, on the aforementioned Sawngthaew to Karon Beach, another expensive place but also much nicer and much more relaxed. The quality of the surf beach here was fantastic, thus a lot of the second half of the afternoon was spent in the water.

Beer and a few of the most popular spirits can be bought everywhere here, including the ubiquitous 7-Elevens. Most retail for around AUD 2.5 to 3 for a normal sized bottle or can, and AUD 4 for a large 660ml bottle. Unfortunately for Libe wine can’t be found as easily, apart from restaurants and bars, and then when it can be located the only option is the house white or red.

Photos of Krabi

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=83559&id=636580665&l=d860d7a15c

Photos of Phuket Province

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=83564&id=636580665&l=22ee332d45